textilpedia : Ideas and News : Bon Drap

Textile is the term applied to the body of tissue obtained in sheet form, more or less resilient, elastic and flexible, formed by crossing two sets of textile threads, one longitudinal (warp) and one transversal (weft).

Jacquard

Jacquard textiles are named after the machine which makes them. The Jacquard loom is a mechanical loom invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1801.

Panama

A plain fabric made with cotton or a polyester blend achieving a relief effect thanks to the different tensions between warp and weft with a 2x2 weave.

Satin

Satin is a textile characterized by an elegant exterior shine, and is very soft.

Piqué

Piqué, Imperial Stitch or Marsella is a fractionated fabric, normally made with cotton yarn or mixed, characterized by its raised parallel cords, fine ribbing or bees nest.

Burn out

A plain fabric of mixed polyester-viscose or polyester-cotton composition, to which chemical products are applied to ‘eat’ the viscose or cotton fibres, forming patterns with some thicker areas and others which are semi-transparent.

Vichy

From the French Vichy, it is the name given to certain fine fabrics with solid, brightly coloured yarns forming simple checked patterns.

Cretonne

Cretonne is the name given to all fabrics with classic floral prints of English inspiration, independent of the type of weave or composition, although they tend to be Linen or Cotton.

Toile de jouy

Originally from the city of Jouy in France, it is a fabric printed in a single colour on a light coloured background depicting country or pastoral scenes.

Swiss Dot

Swiss Generally a sheer fabric, of different compositions, which show little relief patterns using different techniques (flocking, scrub, rough cut or embroidery)

Ikkat

A fabric originally from India, in which the warp fibres are dyed prior to weaving. When woven they form elaborate patterns without defined outlines and faded.

Percale

A fabric made with very fine yarn, and as such very soft to the touch. The term describes the type of fabric and not the material, which is usually Cotton or a Polyester/ Cotton mix.

Organza

Organza are Polyester fabrics with a high density of Warp yarns. A fine fabric, it is transparent and stiff and is often embroidered or printed.

Etamin

From the French, "étamine". An article of little density, with an open mesh to let in light, made with cotton fabric or a mix. It is a woven fabric with a taffeta weave and a soft feel.

Shantung

A fabric from the region of Shantung (China) made of raw silk of different thicknesses that gives an irregular, iridescent texture.

Canvas

It is a woven fabric with taffeta weave, which is characterized by its strength and versatility of use.

Ottoman

Woven employing warp and weft with a significant difference in thickness, which gives an aspect of cross-cord (ribbed).

Mat

A rough looking fabric with very thick and separate threads. It is a woven fabric with a taffeta weave.

Hessian / Burlap

Burlap is the name given to the thick and rough textile made of various types of tow, hemp or jute. It is the term currently applied to items mixing these natural or flax fibers, which are often used as curtains or sheers.

Madras

Originally from the town of the same name. Strictly it is an ottoman (ribbed fabric), but the Madras is more rustic and uneven. It is obtained by combining various natural fibres or synthetic blends.

Flannel

Flannel is a soft fabric with a surface covered with hairs (peach skin appearance) that gives a sense of comfort and warmth.

Microfibre

Microfiber is a type of very thin synthetic fiber with which a non-woven fabric is produced called, by extension, microfibre.

CANALÉ (RIBBED)

The "canalé" is a plain fabric with a very fine and regular cord. It is woven using twin rows of needles inserting the stitches left and right to get the ribbed structure.

Florals

The term "florals" was used for Jacquard fabrics with large floral motifs with color spinning warp and weft.

Boatiné

A fabric with two layers of fabric and a filling in between bound by stitching. This filling is usually "wadding", also known as "Guatiné". Currently the fillers are usually synthetic fibres.

Crêpe

A fabric with a granular, wrinkled surface. It is formed from cross-linked yarns by weaving or using strongly overdrawn thread, to obtain a slightly curled finish.

Flock

A fabric with a velvet appearance, printed by gluing small fibers onto an underlying fabric. The composition may be nylon, rayon, polyester ...

Stropicciato

Fine curtain fabric that is subjected to a heat process to be draped or crumpled irregularly.

Chintz

Chintz, the plural of chint was originally a strong and bright calico fabric, from India, printed with flowers, fruits, birds and other designs in different colours, typically on a clear plain background.

Damask

Damask is a type of twill or satin fabric in which on the one hand the weft serves as a background and the warp forms patterns and on the other side, the opposite.

Corduroy

Corduroy is a thick fabric with a rough feel, similar to velvet, plain or composed of interwoven fibres which when they are parallel form the signature pattern with grooves which are small in size, but which can also be slightly thicker.

Tweed

Tweed (a word that comes from the river Tweed in Scotland), is a fabric originally made from rough wool. Warm and resistant, its texture is irregular and elastic. Nowadays it is made from mixed yarns and acrylics.

Twill (Serge)

Twill or Serge is a fabric with a twill weave, producing typical diagonal lines. The weave is obtained by means of a step, forming diagonal stripes.

Cheviot

Originally an elastic, middleweight wool fabric, with a slightly shiny surface. It is somewhat stiff and even sharp to the touch.

Herringbone twill

These twills the diagonals are alternately right and left forming a ripple pattern in the fabric.

Velvet

Originally a silk and cotton fabric, now made with mixtures and synthetic fibres. Formed by two wefts and one warp, one weft forms the fabrics, while the other is cut short to make the characteristic nap.

Moire

Moharé is finished by irregular compressing of its grain, a procedure that gives it a bright and matt look all at once depending on the light.

Brocade

Brocade is a heavy, luxury silk fabric, made from several wefts. The base or weft base, is a twill pattern and the superimposed weft provides a luxury effect as it is usually woven with gold or silver thread.

Chenille

The surface of Chenille is covered with short hair by using a thread that has the fibres cut giving a velvety appearance. It is usually made from synthetic fibre to ensure colour fastness and durability.

Lace

Lace can be defined as an ornamental and transparent fabric, traditionally made by hand, which is decorated with embroidery. There are also machine-made laces.

Honeycomb

A woven fabric that achieves a relief effect similar to cells.

Rice grain

A plain fabric with a relief the size of a grain of rice achieved by combining several weaves.

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